Seeing the Sites and Bonding with Staff

The school had arranged some nice events for us to enjoy some touristy things in the area and to get to know each other.

All the new staff met in our very own neighborhood of Maadi, down at the Nile for a felucca ride to watch the sunset. It was amazing. A felucca is a traditional wooden sailboat that has been used on the Nile for ages. It was really nice. I love being out on the water and was so tempted to lean over the edge and dip my hand in the water… but here you can’t do that! You would risk getting a parasite (its name I can’t pronounce) that burrows under the skin. I think I’ll pass on that! I was very pleased to see that the water was very clean. I had heard stories before coming here of how dirty the Nile is and that there is floating trash and carcasses, and that it stinks. Thankfully, we didn’t observe any of that. It was a pleasant boat ride and was very beautiful. The river is very wide. It reminds me of the Mississippi River in the US. On the shores you can see palm trees, buildings, mosques, and there is a Coptic church that looked very nice. Martin later went to visit this church. You can read his blog to find out more about it and the connection it has to the Bible. It’s pretty interesting! There are also different types of tour/rental boats on the Nile. They remind me of ones that I would see and work on as a caterer on Lake Geneva in Wisconsin. You can rent a small felucca for very cheap for just an hour and have a very relaxing, romantic trip. BYOB!

Felucca sail with the moon
Felucca sail with the moon
The view of Maadi from the Nile
The view of Maadi from the Nile
Sunset on the Nile
Sunset on the Nile
Felucca boats on the Nile
Felucca boats on the Nile

Following the felucca ride we all went to dinner at Abou El Sid. http://www.abouelsid.com/  This is a very nice, authentic Egyptian restaurant. I recommend checking out their website and reading the story of the restaurant. The food was amazing. We sat at large round tables and the center of the table spun lazy Susan style! This worked well, as they serve the food tapas-style. The food kept coming. There were many dips with different breads, some fried stuffed appetizers, rolled grape leaves, rice dishes, great sauces, interesting meats (I heard one of the meats we ate was quail)- so much food! Then they served dessert. It was a great way to taste so many different local dishes. Unfortunately though we don’t know what anything was called! It was very good food. The food isn’t hot-spicy, but they definitely use lots of spices in their cooking. On some occasions people have warned us, “be careful, it’s spicey!” but to us it’s not spicy! The restaurant also had a great ambiance inside and out. I can’t wait to go back! If you plan to come visit, we will definitely have to take you there! We decided to be adventurous and walk home (rather than take the school bus) with some other teachers who live nearby. This allowed us an opportunity to see more areas of our neighborhood. It was a great evening.

We finally got to see the school. I had looked at lots of pictures online so I had a good idea of what to expect. The entrance is really spectacular. When you walk up there is great landscaping some bubbling water in a little pool, beautiful flowering trees, and palm trees. When you walk in you are greeted by three people at a massive desk with a curved staircase behind them. This is the administration building that also houses the theater. The theater is impressive too; I would say it probably seats at least 500. The stage is lined with plants to set the scene for our welcome introduction. We meet the administration, get pumped for the school-year and sign-up for staff busing according to our neighborhoods. That’s right, the school picks us up and drops us off everyday. At the end of the day, we have the choice of taking a 3:20, 4:30, or 5:20 bus. This is a great option to have. I will write more about the buses later.

We were given a tour of the school campus. On the campus are grades K-12, though primary and secondary are in different buildings. I am teaching music in the secondary building. It is 3 floors high. In the center of each building is an open-air atrium surrounded by staircases. It is really quite nice. I love natural light and I love plants! Hallways then extend out from the center atrium. My classroom is on the ground floor. The PE department gets their own building with a basketball court and has a great outdoor pool. I thought it was interesting that there was no bleacher-seating (that I noticed anyhow!) in the gymnasium. I wonder if they host any games in there. The track is lined with nicely trimmed trees and there is plenty of space for soccer games in the center. There is no cafeteria. The students eat outside in a courtyard area and there are a few different food options from which they can purchase. There is some seating, but many kids just stand and eat. They have an early break and a late break and they can eat at either one (or both!).

School
School
Atrium at school
Atrium at school
Atrium at school
Atrium at school

The school I teach at is essentially run by one woman. She seems to have lots of power in the community, and maybe even extending beyond that. We are told that if we ever get into any trouble (health, safety, theft, etc.) to immediately contact her and we will be taken care of and given better and faster service than otherwise. apparently our school badge is a powerful one around here! Anyhow, she hosted all of us new teachers and our families to a dinner at a clubhouse nearby the school. It was again Egyptian food served in the same manner and again we were stuffed-silly. But the food here is so good! The new staff members are great. There are about 60 of us, coming from all different backgrounds. I am quickly finding out that I am one of only few who are new to international teaching. The new teachers are all ages; most traveling single, though some with spouses and family. It is neat to see how quickly the kids seem to be adapting to the newness and they are making fast friends with each other. For many with spouses, both of them work at the school together.

Our next exciting adventure was with our friends Adrienne and Tyler- an evening trip to the bazar di Khan el-Khalili. We hired a driver whom Adrienne frequently hires. It helps to know good, reliable, trustworthy drivers so that you don’t have to hail a regular taxi out here. For the cost of about $17 round-trip, he drove us into the heart of Cairo, about a 30-minute drive. On the drive there, to avoid major traffic we took a side route that took us through the City of the Dead. This is a fascinating, place. It is a 4-mile long area in Cairo where people live and work amongst the tombs and mausoleums. It is a poor and sketchy area. What we were told is that originally some people lived there to care for the tombs, then their families grew, the city burst with people and they had no where else to go, and now it is accepted to live amongst/on top of/in the tombs. Anyhow, back to the Khan. The Khan is a street market that dates back to the 1300s. It is a maze of merchants with brightly colored rugs, pyramid and pharaoh trinkets, decorative lamps, spices, jewelry, you name it! You are supposed to barter here, which neither Martin or I are used to, or good at. Martin bought a nice trinket box, and we nearly bought a chess-set for way too much money. Maybe we will go back sometime and work him down on the price! It is a really neat place. It’s the type of place I would expect to find a magic carpet! We wandered for a bit and then hung out at a restaurant in the midst of the bazaar. I don’t even know the name, but Adrienne said it’s the oldest restaurant in Egypt- 600 years or so. It was packed so they seated us outside. They didn’t bring us menus but asked what we wanted. We were hoping to get food but because of trouble communicating, we kept it simple and only ordered juice and coffee and a sheesha to share. Because so few people drink alcohol out here, there is rarely alcohol available at restaurants. But there are many amazing and fresh juices, smoothies, coffees, frappacinos, etc. One of my new favorite drinks is lemon mint juice. It’s so subtle and refreshing! Our driver met us back by the front entrance when we were ready.

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The Khan
The Khan
lanterns at the Khan
lanterns at the Khan

The following day, the school had planned an outing again for the new teachers. We met early to get an authentic, Egyptian breakfast. The buses took us across the river to Giza. Out of the blue we can see the giant pyramids in front of us from the bus. It was shocking to see them at first sight. We met at a place for breakfast, though due to some miscommunication they didn’t have the restaurant section open for us, so they served 60 teachers and their families from a to-go order window instead! We had falafel pita and fava bean pita sandwiches and sodas for breakfast. It was pretty good though I was frustrated by the situation.

Now we are off to the pyramids. I have been wanting to see them for years! You should know, in case you visit Egypt, that there are not many public restrooms. There were bathrooms prior to the entrance and we were all advised to use them as there are none in the park. You also should know that there is rarely toilet paper in the stalls, and you typically shouldn’t throw the tp in the toilet bowl. There is also rarely soap and rarely hand towels or dryers. And then you have to tip on your way out! We bought a general park ticket to roam around the area. You can purchase additional tickets to enter specific pyramids. We will have to go back and do that because we didn’t have enough time with the group. The pyramids are amazing. Everything about them is shocking. After seeing them, even stepping up on them, it’s really hard for me to believe that they were built only by men. A single brick in the Great Pyramid is as tall as my chin; and each brick was laid with accuracy down to the millimeter… thousands of years ago! It’s amazing! I was surprised at how quiet it was at the pyramids. Tourism is down so much- come visit Egypt! I compared it to the state and national parks in the states but there’s no way to compare, they just don’t have the funding for proper ropes, etc. There are signs all over saying to stay of the pyramids, yet people climb up anyhow because there’s nothing and no one to stop them. I’m sure you’d get stopped if you’d try to climb up too far. There are locals all over the area trying to hustle you for money. One of them got us good, by taking photos for us and then demanding money. They offer you camel horse-buggy rides from pyramid to pyramid- we were warned that when you do this they may charge you more to get off the camel when you finish! Also, they may demand money if you take a photo of them. I was sneaky and got a nice shot without them noticing. We didn’t have time to ride them, though it looks really fun! So yes, you can see the city in the background of the pyramids; I think this is really cool. It makes it so much more surreal. On the back side of the smaller pyramids it is really quiet. It reminded me of being in the desert in Utah kind of quiet. I was shocked to find this kind of serenity there. There are lots of stray dogs that run around the area. One of them had puppies- pyramid puppies! It is amazing to me that they are still excavating new sites and new discoveries here, when it is so old. A teacher friend, when he was walking down to the Sphinx, came upon an area enclosed with barbed wire. There was a security guard there who gave him a hard time, but then lightened up and offered him a look inside the tomb that they have newly discovered. I am so jealous! The guard told him that when they first open the tomb it smells of flowers. It’s so amazing. Oh and the Sphinx. It takes your breath away. I feel so lucky to have seen these sites. I can’t wait to explore them more. We all met up at the KFC/Pizza Hut just outside the park (which does indeed have a great view of the Sphinx!) and then headed to the Khan with the large group.

This is the view of the city from the pyramids. Notice all the haze-that's air pollution.
This is the view of the city from the pyramids. Notice all the haze-that’s air pollution.

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This is one of the photos that we
This is one of the photos that we “paid” for.

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This is a bit of the original exterior of the pyramid. Most of the original smooth exterior fell off during a large earthquake. Those stones were then used on buildings in the city. One of the pyramids has a cap on the top that remained in-tact.
This is a bit of the original exterior of the pyramid. Most of the original smooth exterior fell off during a large earthquake. Those stones were then used on buildings in the city. One of the pyramids has a cap on the top that remained in-tact.
pyramid
In this photo you can see the buildings where they are working on new excavations. There was a sign that read that they are excavating the second boat of King Khufu.

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I was glad that we had gone the night before because we were exhausted from being in the hot sun all day. It is also a great spot to see at night. After tramping through the desert, Martin got his shoes shined by someone in the market- this was a big ordeal. He asked how much and the guy said “you name it.” Martin said he had 7… so his shoes were shined and Martin gave him the 7 LE and the man was so upset. He was expecting $7. I was in the middle of ordering some spices at the time but ended up having to just leave it all so that we could get away from the shoe-shiner. We bought spices further down anyhow from a better vendor. The spices are kept in jars or large canvas/burlap bags. We bought just a few- curry, mixed spice, dried chamomile petals, and dried hibiscus petals. The only other thing we bought on this outing was a touristy keychain with Nefertiti on it. We avoided the hustle and bustle of the crowded market by risking our lives and crossing the street to get food from Gad, a local restaurant. You have to be brave when you cross the street here. There are basically no driving rules, and same goes for pedestrians. You just have to put your arm down, look the drivers in the eye, and walk confidently across. We’ve been getting the hang of it. The food was good. We had chicken shawarmas and I had an orzo soup. It was great!

All-in-all it was an amazing day.

It was an amazing week. We got more settled in our flat and comfortable in our neighborhood.

At the spice vendor
At the spice vendor
So many spices
So many spices

Settling In

Martin and I got to leave the hotel earlier than others because our apartment was already organized. We chose it back in March from a website that the school put together of available flats. The school has been so helpful in the coordination of all of our arrival details. It has been quite amazing. On the bus headed to Street 9 in Maadi, were Martin and I, Tyler, and Adrienne. I quickly find out that Adrienne lives in the same building as us, and has taught in Egypt previously, along with her husband, left for two years to teach in Turkey, and is back to Egypt. She has been a wealth of information and help to us, and has become a great friend. She is from Chicago and has connections to some small towns in Wisconsin where some of my family members live. It’s so interesting- the further out into the world you go, the smaller it feels and more connected you become. There is also a teacher here who is from Green Bay, WI. Tyler’s story is interesting too. He is from Oregon, but has taught overseas for many years (I can’t recall all the locations), most recently in China. He is still awaiting the arrival of his wife, who will come in November or so after she wraps up some of her business affairs in China.

Maadi is a neighborhood in Cairo. We chose to live in Maadi because there are many expats who live there, there are lots of restaurants and shops to walk to, it is close to the Metro train station, and is fairly safe. Another bonus is that it’s right by the Nile! Our flat is about 8 blocks from the Nile. We can step out our front door and within a 5-minute walk, buy nearly anything- batteries, lamps, rugs, clothing, fruit, fresh fish, EVERYTHING! It is really hard to believe until you are here and see it. I will describe it more another time.

On our way to Maadi we stop at a Hypermarket to pick up anything we need for our apartment. This is much like a super-Walmart or Target- they have home goods and food. We have no idea what we need yet! We know that our place is furnished, and assume that we will need to buy paper-goods, cleaning supplies, linens, dishes… but we really have no idea. We filled up a cart with some odds and ends and were made fun of when we arrived back at the bus for all the goods we bought. It turned out we were so thankful for everything we bought.

We arrived at our apartment and were greeted by a couple bowabs who rushed over to help us with our luggage and bags. The bowabs are pretty great. They help us carry things, take out garbage, keep the entryway clean, and help people park their vehicles on the street. It seems like they are always here and always awake. They don’t speak much English but they are happy to meet us and excited to help. Everything was very confusing when we arrived. We were supposed to meet the landlord on-site, and he didn’t show. This meant we didn’t have a key to our place. Our landlord doesn’t speak English, so we have to have someone be a go-between for us which doesn’t make anything easy. Thankfully, after lots of struggle again with language barriers, we learned that our bowab had a key for us and we were finally let in to our new home.

We were nervous about our apartment, but it truly ended up being fabulous! We are on the fourth floor and have a corner flat; we have views down Street 9 and can see some desert dunes in the distance on a non-hazy day. It’s honestly way more space than we need, but we are lucky to be right on Street 9. We have 3 bedrooms- one is set as an office for Martin to work at during the day. We have room for plenty of guests! We have a cute kitchen, a dining space with chairs for 8, two living areas, and two bathrooms. We have air-conditioning to help keep us cool in this hot hot weather, and heat for when we need it in the winter. We have a great balcony for sitting and watching the world go-by. From it, you can hear Egyptian music from a restaurant across the street, watch football (soccer!) on the big-screen tvs at the coffee shop across the street, watch kids play at the day-care across the street, watch beggars on the street below with their children at their side, watch police who stand guard at the bank below, see the tops of palm trees and sandy streets filled with trash and cars that honk incessantly. There is a cart that is over-flowing with hand-woven baskets of all different sizes at the end of the block. We can watch the sun set over the top of an empty, unfinished building across the street that some homeless have commandeered as their own. We have another balcony to hang clothes out to dry, as we don’t have a clothes dryer. This is our new home.

Our home is tidy… but dirty. The flat has been empty for at least a month and there is a layer of dust on everything. Not the dust I’m used to though; it is a gross film that covers everything! It’s from the sand and blows in through all the cracks in the doors and windows. We even had to wipe down the kitchen walls. I was pretty amazed! Thank goodness for hardwood floors in a place like this!

We were disappointed that our internet wasn’t working- the school had said that it would be all set for us when we arrived, and still we don’t have internet (I am writing this over a week after having moved-in). We are learning some things about Egypt- anything phone or internet related will take a very long time to handle. In this last week, we have also learned some other things that most tourists don’t get to experience. When someone comes to do work on something, expect them to arrive up-to 2 hours earlier or later than they indicated. Also, expect that they will arrive, assess the situation, leave to get supplies, return, work on it, and sometimes leave to return again. It will take hours to fix something. Oh, and sometimes they bring their kids with them. We got our locks changed, and then almost got locked-out because the new lock-mechanism wasn’t working. Thankfully Martin assessed it and fixed it himself. Another added frustration to having the repairmen over is that none of them thus far speak much English. At one point I had to call someone from the school to translate for us. It’s so frustrating to not be able to communicate with people.

Most of our repairs have been completed (we are having screens repaired this weekend, wish us luck!), and we are settling in pretty well. We do love our space that we now call home, though it takes some time to move into a furnished space and call it your own. We finally got enough groceries so that we don’t have to eat out all the time.

We have to remind ourselves that we aren’t on a vacation. This is our real life! We live in Cairo, Egypt! This city is really great. It has such a vibrant energy about it. The people are SO nice. They are all so eager to talk to us and learn about us; a few kids have asked to take pictures with Martin. We stand out everywhere we go, even though we dress modestly and have set-aside our jeans, shorts, and tanks for our time here. It’s the color of our hair and personal style mostly- our glasses, Martin’s beard, my short pixie haircut, well definitely our English-speaking voices too.

But we are here. We are settled (mostly).

(I apologize I’m trying to get caught up with this blog! Not having internet has made it super challenging. Next story will tell all about our adventures we have had checking out some touristy-type attractions.)

Check out Martin’s blog too! He is a great writer, and is up-to-date!

http://www.martintheblog.blogspot.com

Living AreaKitchenMartin balconyPalm Trees